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Tapping Drill Press Handle

So here is a small adapter I use to get threads started with good perpendicularity on a drill press.  Some may think it is un-necessary, yeah kind of, but it was cheap and easier on my hands.

Basically, what it is, is a pulley clamp that allows me to attach a handle to manually turn the drill press ( I never use the fastest top pulley slot, so nothing lost) .  I use this to start tapping on pieces.  For part Info, see
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:718094

The tap drill chart I usually use:
http://www.physics.ncsu.edu/pearl/Tap_Drill_Chart.html


Ok, so, Step 1: Disconnect Drill, keep un-powered when doing things manually

Step 2: Print off (2) clamps, and bolt to top pulley (1/4" Bolts, about 1" LG, w/ flat washers)

Step 3: Chuck Tap, Clamp Part, and line stuff up.

Step 4: Print off Handle and slip on Pulley Clamps.  Now, use one hand to keep downward force on the drill lever and part.  Use the other hand to manually turn the drill press with the handle on the pulley.

Step 5: Attach a magnet to the handle, so it can just be stuck on the top of the drill press cover.  I leave the Pulley clamp on always when working, but don't leave the handle on.  

I get better threads than when I just tap stuff by hand.  And its easier.

So this works on the:
Machinery 5 Speed Bench Drill Press, Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-Bench-Mount-Drill-Press-5-Speed-60238.html

For other drills, just modify to fit.

Thanks!

Piston Test Print

Hi there,

So these are the test pistons I made for 1" Schedule 40 PVC pipe.  Ultimately, later in life with an air compressor, I would think about using this to make low cost custom pneumatic actuators, so for right now, they don't have an explicit purpose besides testing out the three features used here, being O ring splicing, O ring to Printed Plastic sealing, and Printed Plastic threading.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:717946

So first, here is my progression of tests.

So the first one, I tried with just (2) 60 degree vees cut out for the O rings, and wrapped it in teflon. This was maybe 3/4" tall.  By the last print, I lengthened the piston to maybe 1 1/2" tall so that the piston would stay aligned more in the cylinder.  I also added wrench flats to make it easier to tighten against the rod.  By the last print, I made the connection to the rod blind only on one side, so I don't have to worry about the threads leaking fluid.  The below is the cross sectional design for it.  

If it was guided somewhere else, this will only have the one O ring.  

Anyways, I left it in a cylinder with about 10" of water above it for 24 hours, and by the end, no leaks whatsoever.  So I think O-ring seals on plastic parts work just fine.  I had no problem with hand-tapping the pistons to 1/4"-20 threads, so that was successful.  

However, I did notice the plastic starts retaining water through its walls.  So, I think to combat this in the future and ensure it doesn't leak, I should coat the piston in a very diluted mixture of Plastidip or another water sealing compound.  I'll try this another day.

Also, the O ring splicing Jig I printed off worked decently well.  See below

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:717976

Step 1. Cut O ring cord to length (70mm shown in pictures). Try to keep cut as square as possible.

Step 2: Press ends of O ring cord in groove as shown.

Step 3: Apply small amount of Super Glue to the O Ring joint, then slide the carriages closer so the O Ring is butted up. Use a Q tip to draw away any excess glue.

Step 4: Let dry, and file any rough edges away from joint.

Threading was decently easy as well.  I had to keep pressure down on it to avoid stripping, but hand tapping isn't that bad.

I will test the piston someday in the future to see what kind of pressure it can handle, but I don't know yet.  This was more of a proof of concept for myself.  

Thanks!

Tsuba Print

So here is my first attempt at a Tsuba (Hand Gaurd)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_sword_mountings#Types_of_koshirae

I found the design on Thingiverse (Thanks guy)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:618488

Printed with 2.0mm walls, .2mm layer height, 40% fill, Black and Red PLA, bed heat on, 210C Temp

Total print cost: $1.20, about 2 hours, no finishing required.

It slid on pretty well, decently tight fit but no need to file.  It did however have a pretty big gap at the top (between the owl's eyes) so we did have to wedge it, but, for the most part, it is pretty secure.  I'll see if it lasts!

So this was printed for Alan's Bokuto.  His blog is 

http://thebloggingsamurai.blogspot.com/

and he runs the

http://www.texasclassicalkarate.com/

Blog creation!

First Post!

So this is my first blog, and its purpose is to document any developments with Ryan Fabrications, a small business around my 3D printing experience where I intend to print tools, mechanisms, pieces of art and things.  Here, I will be showing how things go well, went wrong, or how things are puzzling to work with.

I am working with a few people, Bobby S., John M., and potentially Alan P.  They've got ideas of things they want, I'm just trying to see if I can make them.  So far, I've only made tools for myself and some items for sale, small things like bottle cap openers, phone stands, etc., but hopefully this list will grow.

So this is my blog about Ryan Fabrications and my modified Printrbot Simple Metal!